Bucket Sub instructions
threads
Transcendent Sound
1. Peerless SLS 830667, 8" Paper Cone Woofer
2. Binding posts (optional, but can also order from PE)
- 2. some silicone sealant
dow 738 or 732?
3. 3 feet, one inch in diameter and inch tall
4. 4 to 8 three inch deck screws
5. one 5 gallon bucket and lid
6. one bag of fast setting concrete.
7. three, 2 inch drywall or wood screws for the feet
8. maybe some small sheet metal or wood screws for the driver.....I did not screw it down on mine but it would not hurt.
I'm using a minidsp 2x4 as an electronic crossover to generate the sub signal, and a older Crown XLS-202 amp
3.7.2 Bridge-Mono Mode
Typical input and output wiring is shown in
Figure 3.7.
INPUTS: Use a custom “Y” adapter cable,
wired to split the signal and invert the polarity
for the Channel 2 amplifier input as shown in
Figure 3.8. We recommend you label the ends
of the Y adapter to help make sure to connect
the correct end to each amplifier input.
Connect the Y adapter between the signal
source and each amplifier input.
NOTE: Crown provides a reference of wiring
pin assignments for commonly used connector
types in the Crown Amplifier Application Guide
(Section 1.21.) available at www.crownaudio.
OUTPUTS: Connect the speaker across the red
binding post of each channel. Do not use the
black binding posts when the amp is being
operated in Bridge-Mono mode.
NOTE: The Channel 1 and 2 level controls
MUST be set to identical settings
when operating the XLS amplifier in
Bridge-Mono mode
Building the sub
1. Turn bucket upside down and use driver to determine the size mounting hole. Cut hole in bottom of bucket. Test the fit.
2. Using 2 inch screws, screw the feet onto the lid and pound the lid on the bucket making sure it is all the way on, I used a rubber mallet. The cement should anchor the screws and feet
3. Between the lid and the the projection on the bucket drive the 3 inch deck screws in. They are the anchors for the cement. I used 4, use as many as you like.
4. Drill a small hole above the projection on the bucket for the wire to exit. Or install some binding posts if you want it "fancy".
5. Mix the concrete in another container....we don't want it on the inside walls, be neat here! Mix it thoroughly and not too runny!
6. With bucket upside down, carefully pour/scoop cement through the driver hole and fill it just above the projection on the bucket making sure it covers the anchor screws, about 2 to 3 inches deep.
- 7.Let it cure at least 3 days. The moisture is the concrete has to come out before the bucket is sealed.
- 8.Solder wire to driver, pass through hole or connect to binding posts and silicone the driver in place, use screws if you want but the silicone will hold it.
- You are supposed to turn the bucket upside down, make the hole for the driver, turn it over and pound the lid on, put the anchoring screws around the rim, screw the feet on with anchoring screws and fill it about 3 inches deep with fast setting concrete, wait at least 3 days , stick some binding posts on the side sealing them with silicone...................that is the enclosure!
I use "co ax sealer" from Parts Express to seal the driver. Silicone is not good enough! - If you do a good silicone, it'll work. Something like Permatex will do the dance. Avoid the caulk tubes.
9. Seal the wire hole with silicone
10. Hook her up and be amazed
- 11.Notice the lack of anything inside, don't screw it up with stuffing!
